komt in de buurt

See also for wikipedia for more information
http://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hamer

http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Down'n'dirty_Blacksmi...
take your choice
? cross-peen hammer -- this style is most commonly associated with the blacksmith's trade. It has a fairly large diameter face, opposite the face is the peen which will look like a narrow face running perpendicular to the axis of the hammer handle. The face and peen are, typically, hardened.
? ball-peen hammer -- typically the faces of these have a slightly smaller diameter and they are quickly recognized by the relatively ball shaped peen opposite the face. Generally these are easier to come by and come in lighter weights than cross peen hammers. Some refer to these as "engineer's hammers". We aren't here to argue jargon. If it's got the right shape it doesn't matter what it's called.
? engineer's hammer -- these will look a bit like a cross peen hammer but with two faces (or the cross peen looks like an engineer's hammer with one face and a peen, depending on how you choose to look at it) and generally they come a bit heavier than cross-peens or ball-peens if accquired commercially. Again, some call a ball-peen hammer an "engineer's hammer", and again we won't argue the jargon. Others may call them "hand sledges". Engineer's hammers tend to have softer faces, because these hand sledges are designed for striking cold metal. What this means for us is that you can do forge work with an engineer's hammer but the face will deform more easily. If you have a choice between an engineer's hammer and a ball or cross peen we recommend that you start with the ball or cross peen if it's in good condition ... by the time you know enough to argue with us you'll probably understand why we suggest this. Eventually you will want one specifically either for the greater weight, to spare the face of the "good" blacksmith's hammer when striking tools like cold chisels or simply because you like the heft of it for some work.
? claw hammer -- this is the typical "carpenter's" or "frameing" hammer. We don't recommend using one of these unless it is all that is available. A claw hammer will work, but the face tends to be smaller and the weight lighter and both combine to make a more work out of the task. Again, if it's what you have, go for it with a claw hammer.
http://www.diydata.com/tool/hammer/hammers.htm
Ball Pein
Normally used by engineer's, the pein in this case, is rounded and is usually used for shaping metal and closing rivets. Ball pein hammers are available from 55 - 1100 (4 oz upto 2 lb.), 110 - 165g (8oz 12oz) are the most suitable for general use. Handles are normally wood, usually Ash or Hickory.


Cross and Straight Pein
Again, mainly used for shaping metal, the pein can be at right angles to the handle or parallel with it. The most useful domestically is the cross pein, where the pein can be used for starting panel pins and tacks. Handles are normally wood, usually Ash.

Bankhamer:
Kleine voorhamer met een bolle (voor het bewerken van plaatwerk) of vlakke kop (voor werk aan de werkbank)
http://www.witwib.com/?s=nl:Hamer
bankhamer''
| Een bankhamer is een hamer, die aan een kant een rond vlak heeft en de andere kant een spitse punt.Bankhamers zijn er in verschillende grootten en worden vooral gebruikt door bank- en plaatwerkers.